Pass-ing the time of day

Three of Europe's most well-known mountain passes, all covered in day of mind-bending scenery and nerve-wrenching hairpins one

- Simon Murphy

A big GS blasted by, cranked so far over that I wondered how the hell it would recover. A second followed, the rider's long blond plaited ponytail acting as a swingometer, as both bikes heaved one way then the other through the tight hairpin bends. I glanced in my mirror and saw the batwing fairing of a Harley hard on my tail, before looking forward again to see the BMWs disappear around the next bend. The Glide went through, too, leaving me with shame and admiration in equal measure. I tried to console myself with the fact the big cruiser wasn't two-up, but it didn't help.

All roads led to the mountains from CransMontana, my base for the few days I would spend in Switzerland, and it was from there with my lightened, luggage-free, Suzuki DL 1050XT, that I sped east along autoroute 9 (or autobahn or autostrada, depending on which part of the country you are in) towards Brig, intent on a day riding three of the most iconic passes in the Swiss Alps: Furka Pass, Susten Pass and Grimsel Pass. I was soon off the motorway and back on picturesque route 19 climbing the Rhône Valley, following my Beeline as it sent me ever upwards towards Obergoms. The road was quiet, open, and perfectly smooth; the land on each side dropping to scrub grass and meadows before rising rapidly to conifers and towering snow-capped rock. I passed through villages with churches that had onion-shaped spires and tall roadside chalets, each made of a dark, heavy wood that looked as if they would be capable of supporting a ton of snow in winter, while rising above any drift blown their way.