WHITE BURGUNDY in three steps

Its slopes and villages inspire respect, adoration, awe and sometimes frustration. But what's unarguable is that Burgundy is seen as the world's greatest territory for Chardonnay, if not white wine as a whole. Discovering its complex geography, its myriad styles and subtle expressions is likely to involve a lifetime's passionate dedication - so where to begin such a fascinating journey?

- CHARLES CURTIS MW

White Burgundy can be many things to many people: exhilarating, exasperating, and mystifying by turns. It is likely that few of us will ever truly understand the complex topic of white Burgundy, but those who try will undoubtedly enjoy the effort. Armed with a bit of information and advice, we can begin to explore this extensive category and find great wines at every price while avoiding disappointment.

1 WHERE TO START

There are several possible entry points to the universe of white Burgundy. Regional-level Bourgogne is one of the familiar places to start. This category is the base of the quality pyramid in Burgundy (see p25), and more than half of all wine produced in Burgundy bears a regional label of one type or another.

Regional wines are often produced from vines that lie outside the limits of a village appellation. In the Côte d'Or, they are often made with grapes grown to the east of the D974 road, which traces the line of the Via Agrippa constructed by the Romans along a fault line in the Côte. The soil is deeper and much more fertile east of the fault and thinner and rockier to the west. The former favours growing grains, while the latter is better suited to vines.