SOAKING IT UP

A nourishing 48-hour retreat awaits in Bath County, Virginia

- LAYLA KHOURY-HANOLD

FRIDAY

THERE'S A MAGICAL quality to Bath County, located in Virginia's Allegheny Highlands. As you approach, you'll take in the bucolic landscapes, but soon your attention will D demand that your car hug the mountain curves a little tighter. It's impossible to resist rolling down the windows and breathing in lungfuls of cool air.

There's something in the water, here, too. Bath County is home to Hot Springs and Warm Springs, which for more than two centuries have been sought after for the area's therapeutic mineral springs. Its appeal is bolstered by hiking and fishing, charming and historic accommodations, a world-class music venue, and locally inspired food and drink that showcases everything from mountain trout to artisan cider. People come to Bath County to nourish themselves, to reconnect with nature, to revive their spirits, and to fill themselves up by slowing down. Here's what to do, drink, and eat, and where to stay to soak up that Bath County magic.

Time your arrival for lunch and seek out the local favorite Warm Springs Gallery. The first floor houses local and internationally acclaimed contemporary art, while upstairs is home to The Garden Room, a dreamy gift shop and café. For lunch, you can't go wrong with one of the weekly specialty salads-say, tomato, peach, and nectarine topped with fresh basil and local chevre or hearty sandwiches (the tarragon chicken salad is a to-go item, but ask nicely and the staff will spin it into a superlative sandwich). Weather permitting, snag one of the bistro patio tables in the adjacent garden. Before you leave, stock up on regional souvenirs such as maple syrup, Virginia peanuts, cheese straws, and jams, as well as books and artisanal kitchen goods such as tea towels, wooden spoons and bowls, and trivets.