''The fact that we make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a vineyard in Rutherford is a bit of a tough story," admits El Molino owner Lily Berlin.
In the heart of Napa Valley, ground zero for $300 bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon, spa resorts, and world-class restaurants, lies El Molino's 68-acre vineyard. Nearby, a modest combination of the family home and winery sits a few miles north of St. Helena, just off Highway 29. It's the site of one of the first wineries in Napa, dating to 1871. It's a charming home, a multigenerational, family-owned winery-and it's also a bit of a time capsule. El Molino wines have been made the exact same way, with the same equipment, since its resurrection with the 1987 vintage. Even the label is the same as the 1871 version.
El Molino might be an anomaly in its neighborhood. “Napa is mostly planted to Cabernet. Well, why is that?” challenges Berlin. “You might tell me it’s because the terroir supports Cabernet. But is that true? Napa seems like a pretty great place to grow a lot of things, and if you look at the history of Napa, there were a lot of crops grown here.”
Beyond the curiosity of making Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Napa, there’s a deeper story here. It’s about tradition, a family’s single-minded vision, a respect of the past, and, most importantly, outstanding Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.
Berlin, 50, is the woman propelling the vision of El Molino today. She’s a determined and focused woman with bright aquamarine eyes and a steady gaze. She lives with her husband Jon, 49, and three children—Clementine, 17; Beatrice, 16; and Edward, 11—in the St. Helena home and winery where she grew up.
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة September 30, 2022 من Wine Spectator.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك ? تسجيل الدخول
هذه القصة مأخوذة من طبعة September 30, 2022 من Wine Spectator.
ابدأ النسخة التجريبية المجانية من Magzter GOLD لمدة 7 أيام للوصول إلى آلاف القصص المتميزة المنسقة وأكثر من 9,000 مجلة وصحيفة.
بالفعل مشترك? تسجيل الدخول
Shipwrecked Champagne Hoard Discovered Near Sweden
It sometimes feels like wine has a habit of falling into the briny deep. On July 23, Polish wreck diver and underwater photographer Tomasz Stachura announced that he and his Baltictech team had discovered the wreck of a 19th-century sailing ship near Öland, an island off the coast of Sweden—and it was crammed with bottles of Champagne and mineral water.
Openings: The Latest in Napa Tasting
Several new tasting options have opened in Napa Valley, particularly in downtown Napa where wineries are launching satellite tasting rooms. Standing out from the crowd means trying new approaches. Here are some highlights:
War in Middle East Affects Vintners
The 2024 harvest at Israel’s Dalton Winery was punctuated by nonstop rocket and drone attacks launched from just across the border in Hezbollah-controlled southern Lebanon.
Wineries Sue Napa County in Federal Court
Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit in federal court in September alleging that Napa County officials violated their constitutional rights.
Savoring Persimmon Season
For many, persimmons are an enigma ingredient. Chef David Nayfeld of Award of Excellence-winning Che Fico in San Francisco and its Best of Award of Excellence sibling dangling persimmons off the tree with a stick at a childhood friend's house before realizing what they were. \"I remember his parents saying, 'Hey, don't hit the persimmons, those are food!\"\"
Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
Gigondas Blanc Est Arrivé!
Ask winemakers in the Southern Rhône to name the most exciting white grape in their region and you will hear a growing number of them say \"Clairette.\"
Kistler's DARKER SIDE
Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ups the ante at the house that Chardonnay built
THE SPLENDOR OF CHAMPAGNE
THE REGION'S LEADING PRODUCERS DELIVER HIGH QUALITY AMID A DIVERSE RANGE OF STYLES
MICHAEL BATTERBERRY: 1932-2010 Gourmet, Journalist, Gentleman
Before Food Network, Top Chef or Yelp ... before the term “foodie\" ... before tomatoes were heirloom and sushi was fast food... back when fancy restaurants were always French... Michael Batterberry and his wife, Ariane, were working to celebrate and elevate the status of American chefs and international cuisine. Julie Mautner, Food Arts' former executive editor, looks at the life and legacy of her late mentor, affectionately known as The Bat.
