Take A Passage To India

Whether cruising along the idyllic Brahmaputra River in Assam or discovering the joy of whisky in Jodhpur, Harper’s BAZAAR drinks deep of new experiences in India.

There are many dilemmas facing today’s traveller: Is my carbon footprint light enough? Are local people benefitting from my visit? Am I respecting the culture? So perhaps it wasn’t so surprising, as we drive towards Kaziranga National Park, in Assam India, at 5am, that someone asks: “How will I know if my elephant is well cared for?” We’d travelled hundreds of kilometres and endured a 90-minute white-knuckled road trip to get this far before sunrise for an elephant safari through the plains. For modern day globetrotters, eco- and social-consciousness plays a big part in their holiday choices. Google “should I ride an elephant” and you’ll find hundreds of posts arguing the toss. We quiz our mahout relentlessly and were encouraged by the fact that, in this World Heritage Site, our female elephant only works two hours a day before the sun gets too hot.

Welcome to adventure cruising in remote India, a journey that assails your senses with fresh conundrums every day. We’re sailing up the mighty Brahmaputra River like true explorers. Some 200m ahead, a wooden boat acts as our pilot. A man on the bow dips a long pole into the murky waters to ensure there is enough depth for the MV Mahabaahu to proceed. The MV Mahabaahu is one of only two ships that make the trek from Guwahati in Assam to Kaziranga National Park, a 430sqkm UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s a spa deck for Ayurvedic treatments and a small pool at the back of the ship. Best of all is the large sun deck on the top floor where you can while away your afternoons peering through binoculars at the ever-changing banks, looking for wildlife, or waving at the incredibly excited villagers. There is a single dining room and all meals are provided. Dinner is a five-course affair, and our cruise director mixes guests cunningly so everyone quickly finds like-minded companions to chat with over their meals.