Hidden North Korea

Volcanic peaks and secret beaches? As more of guarded North Korea’s rural reaches open up, we grab our chance to glimpse its ‘unofficial’ wilds

- Hilary Bradt

The Majon Hotel catered to our every comfort. The bathroom had a generous collection of toiletries, all labelled Sheraton – no affiliation, of course, they must have purchased a job lot. On the desk in the bedroom was a little box containing a pair of scissors, a small pot of glue, a metal ruler, bulldog clips and a stapler. And in the wardrobe… a gas mask.

This hotel also had one more surprise up its sleeve. Gazing out to sea, I saw a sweep of ochre sand curve away under steep, pleated cliffs to reveal a private beach. Beyond that lay an island reached via a raised concrete walkway, its path edged with pink daisies that attracted fluttering swallowtail butterflies and leading to a viewpoint that looked out over distant headlands and hidden coves. When we returned to the beach, its parasols and recliners lay undisturbed. There was no need to stake our claim with towels: our small group were the only guests.

The east coast of North Korea was not what I expected, but then not much of what I saw and experienced here was. Who would have thought that people would smile and return our waves from the bus? That the food would be so plentiful and tasty, or that Pyongyang would have its own – and brand-new – beer festival?

Even a short stay in the capital promised much, but I had chosen to escape the city. My journey would take me to parts of the country seldom visited by outsiders, travelling to the far north and deep south by charter plane and bus. It promised the opportunity to hike distant peaks and see unofficial rural life up close on our long journeys. And most of all, I was simply curious about the people that lived here, away from the bright lights and grand statues of the capital.

Following the Leader