Steelhead Wellington

A freshly caught fish steals the spotlight from beef in this classic, and delicious, dish

- Jonathan Miles

WE ALL KNOW BEEF WELLINGTON or, even better, venison Wellington, that quasi-British showstopper in which a seasoned loin is encased in a flaky, crisp puff pastry. This variation, with rich steelhead in place of red meat, is its stream-driven cousin. It comes from the kitchen of Ryan Ziegler, executive chef at Ilani Resort’s Line & Lure restaurant in Ridgefield, Wash., and it sees a whole steelhead (or, Ziegler suggests, a spring Chinook salmon) nestled into a bed of garlicky greens, baked inside a pastry crust, and drizzled with a cayenne-laced hollandaise sauce. This dish is the star of Ziegler’s brunch menu, and it’s got more than enough dazzle to cap off a post–fishing trip dinner feast.

INGREDIENTS

1 ⁄2 to 2 lb. whole steelhead or salmon, boned and (optional) skin removed

1 Tbsp. olive oil

1⁄2 yellow onion, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, minced 10 oz. baby spinach

1⁄4 cup grated Gruyere (or jack) cheese

1⁄4 cup all-purpose flour

5-by-7-inch piece frozen puff pastry, thawed

1 large egg

4 egg yolks

1 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1⁄4 pound unsalted butter (1 stick), melted