I'm in the final months of filming a movie called Over the Edge, which is about trying to paddle the biggest barrel. Filmmaker Andrew Kaineder and I have been critically weighing up all the factors of every significant swell in the last 18 months, pulling the trigger when the elements look to produce big, hollow waves.
Waiting for swells is an exciting business. You have to be prepared for something you're not sure when or if it's going to arise. The long hours of training, perfecting equipment and continually being in a mental state to step up to massive waves, all seems strange when the waves are flat, and there are no red blobs on the forecast. Then suddenly, the storm is created, and you're scrambling to get everything organised to travel across the world to face up to sometimes 50-foot waves.
It's also challenging to make any commitments. I had two events this last year that I had to attend, and both responsibilities caused me to miss big, life-changing barrels that would have been huge for our film.
In January, I was getting ready to go up the coast for my friend's bachelor party. With everything organised, suddenly the day before this incredible looking Mully swell popped up on the forecast. The Saturday morning, I cancelled my lift to the bachelors, booked my ticket for Dublin and then flew out a few hours later. Landing in Ireland, I was suddenly transported from the comforts of summer, family life in SA to an Irish winter storm; snow on the mountains, cold winds and giant surf. The swell hit the very next day, and we missioned out to Mully. My first surf off the plane would be 20-foot slabs, gloves, 5mm boots and hooded suit.
Diese Geschichte stammt aus der Issue 202-Ausgabe von Carve Surfing Magazine.
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Diese Geschichte stammt aus der Issue 202-Ausgabe von Carve Surfing Magazine.
Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.
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2020 Wetsuit Guide
If the recent boom in wetsuits sales is anything to go by, the best bit of advice we can give you is make swift decisions and invest quickly. To help you, here’s the lowdown on the best wetsuits on the market right now.
CEYLON STORIES
SERENDIPIDITY IN THE INDIAN OCEAN.
ENGLISH NATIONALS
TOLCARNE TAILSPINS IN THE LAST COMP FOR A WHILE . . . MAYBE
THE ST VALENTINE 'S DAY MASSACRE
ROB MILES AND CALLUM DAVID THOMAS MIX IT UP WITH THE WORLD’S BEST AT ALL TIME SAFI.
BARBADOS
FAMILY FRIENDLY SURF TRIPPING TIPS
GENE GENIE
FROM PAIGNTON THROUGH VARIOUS PROFESSIONAL KITCHENS WITH A SOJOURN IN THE SCOTTISH ISLES EUGENE TOLLEMACHE NOW CALLS INDO HOME AND IS LOVING LIFE
*OCCIDENTAL DRIFT
THE BLEEDING EDGE OF SURF EXPLORATION IS A HOT, INHOSPITABLE PLACE. BUT WORTH THE MISSION.
TASMANIA ART CLUB
BRENDON GIBBENS AND DION AGIUS EXPLORE THE LITTLE CHUNK HANGING OFF THE BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA AND GET CREATIVE
Mr Smith
THE GENIAL ED SMITH IS ONE OF THOSE SURFERS THAT HAS A TON OF ABILITY AND TOYED WITH THE COMP SCENE BUT SOON REALISED A REAL TRADE AND SURFING FOR HIMSELF WAS A WISER OPTION. WE BUMPED INTO HIM ON OUR MISSION TO SCOTLAND, AND HE WAS KILLING IT EVERY SESSION. SUPER STYLISH, ALWAYS DEEP, A PLEASURE TO SHOOT. HE 'S A GOOD BLOKE TO GO FOR A PINT WITH TOO.
SETH MOZ
SETH MORRIS IS A YOUNG PRO FROM A QUIET PART OF WALES. HE JOINED US ON OUR WINTER MISSION TO PORTUGAL, WHERE HE IMPRESSED ALL WITH HIS STYLISH ATTACK. READ ON FOR A PEEK INSIDE HIS HEAD.