Sacred Peaks, Ancient Traditions

From mist-laden hills and riverside picnics to paddy fields and tranquil monasteries, Punita Malhotra discovers a place for hearts to connect and memories to bloom in Arunachal Pradesh

- Punita Malhotra

Touchdown Tawang

We stand at Sela Pass, 13,700 feet above sea level, watching fluttering prayer flags send whispers to the heavens. Driving from Bomdila, winding through jagged peaks and mist-shrouded valleys, has brought us to this tranquil threshold where West Kameng meets Tawang Valley. It's a short walk to Sela Lake, one of over 100 sacred glacial lakes in the area. I remove my glasses to fully absorb the ethereal brilliance of the glassy surface under the cobalt blue sky. An idyllic opening sequence, though not orchestrated for us. The wild yaks who graze here have the first dibs on this Eden.

"What does Tawang mean?" I quiz my guide. He readily explains that apparently, a Tibetan monk named Mera Lama came here in the 17th century, searching for a horse, fell in love with the land and ended up building a monastery, which he named Tawang (literally, 'chosen by horse'). The legend lingers in the air as we continue deeper into Monda territory.

It is almost obligatory to visit Tawang Monastery, where Mera Lama's vision took root. India's largest and one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist monasteries outside Tibet perches loftily above the valley in a majestic display of red-and-gold grandeur. The soft hum of monks' chants guides us through the monastery's open courtyards, leading us to the dukhang (assembly hall).

Inside, we gaze curiously at a silver casket veiled in silk.

It holds the thangkas (painted scrolls), which are said to have been created with blood drawn from the nose of the 5th Dalai Lama. Our guide tells us that the Monpas are also renowned for their ancient craft of creating finetextured handmade paper, called Mon Shugu, made from the bark of a local tree.