Chiang Mai

The city of a thousand temples’ has outgrown its ancient city walls and now offers avantgarde art and cuisine alongside ancient wats

- JEREMY TREDINNICK

1 WAT UMONG

Take a THB200 US$5) taxi ride west from Chiang Mai’s center to this unique forest temple, built in the 13th century by a monk who taught the king meditation. The main chedi is surrounded by six hectares of woodland, but uniquely it stands on a broad knoll beneath which are a series of tunnels, supposedly built by the king with walls painted with jungle scenes, and Buddha statues at various dead ends. The murals have mostly faded away, but it’s an atmospheric place. The local city folk come often to meditate in the peaceful grounds, feed the many catfish and turtles in its lake, and wander the grounds where many old and broken sculptures lie. Curiously there’s also a replica of an ancient Ashok pillar from India, showing the bringing of Buddhism to northern Thailand by the Lanna dynasty’s King Mengrai. One of Chiang Mai’s least visited temples, but one of its most rewarding. templesinchiangmai.com

2 BLACKITCH ARTISAN KITCHEN

Tucked away in a tiny building in a nondescript alley just northwest of the old city you'll find Blackitch, a remarkable restaurant that purports to make local ingredients shine by integrating culinary science and local wisdom”. The restaurant has been highlighted in the Michelin Guide for good reason. Thai founder Chef Black unites Thai, Japanese and Chinese influences and creates a set 10-course tasting menu that introduces unusual and exquisite flavours in each small but succulent dish.