Fuel to the fire

From chilli to wasabi, there's an art to pairing drinks with spicy foods. SAMANTHA PAYNE breaks it down.

- SAMANTHA PAYNE

Spice is the bane of every sommelier’s existence; the ultimate test of our mettle. Because not all spices are created equal. From blazing heat to aromatic, it all alters a wine pairing.

My journey through various culinary landscapes has illuminated the multifaceted nature of spice on the palate. These undertakings have taught me that we experience spice in three ways – through texture, flavour and level of heat. Fire engine-red birdseye chillies bring searing heat that will scare off any wine you try to pair with it. On the other hand, aromatic spices tend to present more texturally in the mouth. Think of those pleasant Sichuan mouth tingles that almost hint at sweetness suiting fruitier-style wines and drinks. Then there are the spices that aren’t spicy at all, bringing flavour without heat or sensation: smoky paprika and a juicy rosé – that’s your time to shine.

Sichuan

Sichuan “peppercorns” are not peppers. Unlike red chillies, also used in Sichuan cuisine, they are the berries of the prickly ash tree, part of the citrus family. While their flavour is subtle, with floral and lime zest notes, they create a tingling mouthfeel. Avoid overwhelming the palate with more sensation; steer clear of acidic or tannic wines and reach for a neutral Italian soave or perfumed pinot gris. Alternatively, a soft mouthfeel apple cider pairs wonderfully with dishes like cold noodles with Sichuan dressing, crushed ginger and garlic cucumbers.