Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are having a major skincare moment. Considered second-generation alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), PHAs work in a similar way. They break down and remove the ‘glue’ that binds dead cells to the skin’s surface, revealing a brighter, plumper and smoother complexion. AHAs, beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) and PHAs form the triumvirate of chemical skin exfoliants.
THE GENTLER EXFOLIANT
The most common PHAs are galactose, gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. As they have larger molecules than AHAs, they can’t penetrate the skin as deeply, so their work is confined to the top layer, sloughing away dull, dead cells as slower-acting but equally effective exfoliants. If you find AHAs too harsh, PHAs might work for you as they are clinically proven to be suitable for sensitive skin.
PHAs are actually not that new. Clinical studies from as far back as 2004 have detailed their use in treating photodamaged skin. Dermatologist Dr. Teo Wan Lin says, “PHAs seem novel because the term ‘polyhydroxy acid’ hasn’t been used frequently in recent times, although our knowledge of it stems from the 1970s.”
The reason why we’ve seen a slew of PHA products in recent months is down to business. The patent on PHAs recently expired, so the cost of using it as an ingredient in skin care products has been drastically lowered.
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