Glamour! Indie! Rock 'N' Roll!

The pandemic-birthed resuscitation of Indie Chic - or, as the media now puts it, Indie sleaze and its continual ascent on the internet and style charts. The luxury world's embrace of young musical acts such as the leather-suited maneskin and grunge princess Beabadoobee (and, dare we say, a 38-year-old Avril Lavigne). Gen z-ers' obsession with the late Dame Vivienne Westwood. Fashion has always sought stimuli from musical subcultures - the more provocative, the better - but lately, it seems as if we're entering a whole new weirdly nostalgic golden age of dressing like rockstars (go ahead, pick your genre). Boil it down, perhaps to tiktok, where the celebration of individual aesthetics and a hyper-smart algorithm have made discovering and forming a subculture (or the 2.0 version) as easy as a scroll. (at press time, the hashtags #indie and #punk raked in 11.9 billion and 8.1 billion views on the platform, respectively.) of course, many of us could also simply be inspired by the most rockstar generation today: twenty-somethings and under for whom self-expression and creativity are a way of life and, in the wake of the pandemic, are even less afraid of chaos. Ahead, all the fashion houses that are professing their love for rock 'n' roll in one way or another in spring summer 2023

- NOELLE LOH

Titled "Heroes", Marc Jacobs' latest catwalk collection is a beautiful and bittersweet homage to the "godmother of punk", Vivienne Westwood, following her passing last December. The street-inflected, couture-on-crack aesthetic he's made a signature in recent years collides with the late punk pioneer's own. Think the latter's bustier gowns given a military makeover complete with cargo pockets, or recreated in crushed velvet or a leatherlike material, exaggerating their romantic silhouettes to almost madcap effect. Meanwhile, accessories have been distilled down to the essentials. On the runway, models wore a single strand of pearls - a look that Jacobs himself favours, but can also be seen as a nod to the very necklace that shot Westwood into Gen Z consciousness. The footwear of choice: Jacobs' staple Kiki platform boots inspired by the vertiginous shoes Naomi Campbell famously took a tumble in when walking Westwood's Fall Winter 1993 show.

Julien Dossena vibes to a surprisingly subversive soundtrack of punk and grunge at Paco Rabanne with grommet-studded tanks and harnesses offering an alternative way to shine (alongside the brand's signature use of chainmail) and sultry slips paired with combat boots. The root of all that fury? The overturning of Roe v. Wade in the US just weeks before the show.

Explains the Frenchman: "It's as if all the progress we have been able to make in recent years - of accepting new norms and greater openness - has only been a prelude to a fight that's just begun...

That's why the image of this very strong woman includes her ability to defend herself, to protect herself and even to attack. I was interested in expressing all this resulting anger, violence and chaos through the lens of subversive cultures.