A Not So Common Scent

For the first time, the singular house of Hermes has launched a chypre perfume fragrance type known for its complexity and dualistic nature a that comes in a first-of-its-kind bottle, no less. Keng Yang Shuen finds out more about Barenia, Hermes's latest scent that hit stores recently, from the brand's in-house perfumer Christine Nagel.

The term "chypre (pronounced shi-pruh) isn't quite common parlance unless you're among perfume enthusiasts. Derived from the French word for the island of Cyprus, the chypre is often considered to be one of the oldest fragrance families around, with roots going back to the Middle Ages.

To understand why chypre scents tend to be underrated, one has to know what makes them special. Industry insiders often describe a chypre as a work of contradictions, characterised by fresh, citrusy top notes (most often bergamot) contrasted against deep, earthier base notes such as oakmoss and patchouli. It is this distinctive interplay between light and dark elements that gives chypres their dualistic nature and sophistication. Simply put, they're perfumes for those who want to make a bold statement with their scents.

This also means that chypres can be an acquired taste. For one, they tend to have a more ornate and mature profile as compared to friendlier concoctions. When fresh, light scents became de rigueur in the 1990s, for example, chypres saw a dip in popularity, according to several industry reports.

It might seem fitting, then, for Hermes - a maison that has always moved to its own beat to be a fan. Its in-house perfumer Christine Nagel always knew she would create a chypre scent for the house since arriving 10 years ago. Just last month, the brand revealed it: the intriguing Barenia, which opens with lilting notes of butterfly lily and the sweet and fruity miracle berry before segueing into a trail of smoky oakwood followed by an even earthier, musky note of patchouli.

This womanly fragrance is alluring for reasons beyond what it smells like: It's Hermes's very first chypre (yes, you read right - after 70 perfumes). It also cleverly synthesises multiple motifs of the house.