When chunky chains started dominating this year’s high jewellery collections, the electro-hop beats of Salt-N-Pepa’s 1987 hit Push It pumped around my brain for days. The musical connection also struck a chord with Ehssan Moazen, creative director of Chaumet, one of the oldest jewellery maisons on Paris’ Place Vendôme. ‘Our ‘Tulip’ necklace does have a hint of 1980s streetwear and a touch of punk to it,’ he says of the heavy diamond-set piece from this year’s Le Jardin de Chaumet collection.
Yet it’s rare for a jeweller whose business is seriously precious materials to create big, bold pieces that might be confused with street ‘bling’. After all, high jewellery is, by its very nature, designed to last. ‘Being recognised as a traditional house for our history, craftsmanship and the quality of our jewels is important – it’s in our DNA,’ says Moazen. ‘But it becomes a challenge if we only lean towards our past.’ As such, he sees the voluminous ‘Tulip’, with its off-centre 10.70ct Tanzanian red spinel, as ‘the right inspiration to convey contrasting influences in a highly sophisticated way’.
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Esta historia es de la edición January 2024 de Wallpaper.
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Guiding Light - Designer Joe Armitage follows his grandfather's footsteps in India, reissuing his elegant midcentury lamp and creating a new chandelier for Nilufar Gallery
For some of us, family inheritances I tend to be burdensome, taking up space, emotionally and physically, in both our minds and attics. For the London-based designer and architect Joe Armitage, however, a family heirloom has taken him somewhere lighter and brighter, across generations and continents, and into the path of Le Corbusier. This is the story of a lamp designed by Edward Armitage in India 72 years ago, which has today been expanded into a collection of lights by his grandson Joe.
POLE POSITION
A compact Melbourne house with a small footprint is big on efficiency and experimentation
URBAN OASIS
At an art-filled Mexico City residence, New York designer Giancarlo Valle has put his own spin on the country's traditional craft heritage
WARM FRONT
Designer Clive Lonstein elevates his carefully curated Manhattan home with rich textures and fabrics
BALCONY SCENE
A Brazilian island hotel offers a unique approach to the alfresco experience
ENSEMBLE CAST
How architect Anne Holtrop is leaving his mark on the Middle East
Survival mode
A new show looks at preparing for a post-apocalyptic landscape (and other catastrophes)
FLASK FORCE
A limited-edition perfume collaboration between two Spanish craft masters says it with flowers
BLOOM SERVICE
A flower-shaped brutalist beauty in Geneva gets a refresh
SECOND NATURE
A remodelled museum in Lisbon, by Kengo Kuma & Associates, meshes Japanese and Portuguese influences to create a space that sits in harmony with its surroundings