Matches made in heaven

Tap into the know-how of the experts taking the possibilities of food and drink pairings well beyond the traditional wine list

- TONY NAYLOR

Wine dominates restaurant tables but you don't need to limit your choices to red or white when deciding what to drink with your main. Forward-thinking food lovers are pouring fizz, beer, ciders and shrubs alongside their meals to create sensational new flavour interactions. Is it time to up your foodmatching game? olive asks the experts how to do it.

Sparkling wine

In 1930, Parisian store La Samaritaine de Luxe challenged makers to create a smooth champagne that could be enjoyed with food. Besserat de Bellefon succeeded and, ever since, food pairing has been in its DNA, says export manager Julien Martin: “Preserving malic acid - the original fruit acidity - gives our wines plenitude and freshness. Secondly, fine bubbles that are 30% thinner ensure our champagnes never take over food but complement it.”

Champagne is usually marketed as a celebratory tipple or aperitif. Besserat de Bellefon champagnes, available in restaurants including London's Mama Shelter and Gordon Ramsay's Savoy Grill, also highlight its food-friendly character. Each champagne comes with its own food pairing suggestions, such as Bleu Brut with sardines and yuzu, or the Millesime with bellota ham.

This is rare enough to be notable. But you can increasingly spot sparkling wines served with food. Sandia Chang, sommelier at London's Kitchen Table, paired champagne with pasta during truffle season: “The bright acidity and richness of some chardonnay-based champagnes come across like wine.” At Simon Rogan's Henrock in Cumbria, a sparkling rosé was created by the chef with Hampshire's Exton Park vineyard ("It's full of bright red fruits and floral aroma," says sommelier Charles Carron Brown), is served with the vanilla parfait.