Focus on... Growing peas

Harvest perfect pods from June to October with Lucy

- Lucy Chamberlain

WHETHER you're a shelling, mangetout or sugar-snap fan, there's a pod out there with your name on it. But how do you get maximum yield from your stalwart crop?

When growing peas, one element is fundamental to success - and it's all in the roots. The larger the root system, the bigger the crop - it's that simple. To get a decent network of roots you need to provide an open, moist (but not waterlogged), warm (not hot) soil. Sounds complicated? Trust me, it's not - just sow sufficiently early in the spring, and protect all sowings from mice. Cold soils are also a no-no, with seeds rotting off if sown below 12°C (54°F). So, for super-early harvests sow in pots under cover - if sown in a propagator in mid-February they can be planted out under cloches now.

A second maincrop batch can be sown directly outdoors now in a sunny spot with ample compost added, and if you choose a powdery mildew-resistant variety and irrigate regularly, a further batch can be sown in late May or early June (some vigorous varieties claim that July sowings are possible).

Once robust pea plants get going, they'll quickly put on rapid leaf growth; support this with wire or peasticks. As days lengthen flower formation is triggered, and pods soon follow. If on a free-draining soil or experiencing a dry spell, please remember to irrigate during this stage, otherwise individual pea seeds or whole pods can be aborted. Nobody wants that!

Lucy's top tips

Keep your pea plants happy!

Pea seeds remain viable for a good three years, but after this, germination rates quickly decline.

Choose dwarf peas for pot culture. Taller heritage peas crop over a much longer period, so can also be useful.

Leafless peas are less prone to foliar disease, though yields are slightly lower and weed competition is weaker.