point that piece! an A to Z guide

All the tricks to maximizing your DIY skills and making old furniture look better than new.

A is for angled brush

Sometimes called a cutting a brush, it easily covers corners, edges, and everything else. Nylon and polyester bristles work best with water-based paints, the common choice for furniture projects. (Oil-based is for surfaces that get wet, like a kitchen table.)

Pros prefer brushes by Purdy, Wooster, and Zibra.

B is for bone inlay

The real deal is gorgeously intricate, but at a pretty price; stencils in flower-and-leaf motifs and geometric patterns deliver the design for a whole lot less. If you use repositionable spray mount, you won't have to hold down the stencil as you go, and it'll give you the cleanest lines. Remove any residue with a damp cloth.

PAINTS Tuberose and White Flour by Sherwin-Williams

C is for chalky paint

It's popular with DIYers for good reason: The thick consistency makes it less likely to drip than other formulas, and its forgiving, velvety matte finish looks fantastic no matter what (some people don't even prep). Buy a brush made for chalky formulas-the oval shape and densely packed bristles hold the heavy paint well.

PAINTS Greek Blue, Provence, Louis Blue, and Pure, all Chalk Paint by Annie Sloan

D is for dots

Party on your piece! That's kind of how dots feel, right? You can buy a stencil, make your own by tracing a circle onto card-stock and cutting it, or use a cup to outline the shape right on the furniture. No need to plan anything out: A random pattern is always whimsical, says Connie Clarke of Faff Designs, who painted this little chest mauve before going the homemade stencil route. Two-and-a-half-inchers like these appeal in any room; smaller or larger dots are cutesy for a kid.

PAINTS Desert Rose and Conch, both Silk All-in-One Mineral Paint by Dixie Belle