CATEGORIES

EARTHLY DELIGHTS

Come fall, the Italian region of Umbria is a lush, fertile inland oasis. Peter Terzian reaps a bounty of culinary and cultural pleasures.

RUNNER'S HIGH

Some travelers like to move at a faster clip. Alexandra Kleeman crosses the peaks and pastures of Ireland with a group of women who take life in stride.

THE WILDEST ISLE

Compared with its neighbors, the island of Hawaii is bigger, more untamed-and, at times, unpredictable. With her family in tow, Flora Stubbs finds the perfect balance between relaxation and rugged adventure.

A ticket to the top of the world

On a luxurious train tour of Peru, Lake Titicaca and Machu Picchu are the headline acts. But, as Monisha Rajesh discovers, witnessing everyday life from the rails can be every bit as memorable.

Bonjour la France

When an American writer retires in Brittany, she learns how to belong again.

Chills and Thrills

On an Alaskan wilderness adventure, Sarah Manguso and her son learn the elements of survival.

Wheels on Fire

With its blazing fall colors and picturesque villages, the Japanese island of Kyushu was made for cycling.

Down to Earth

Pottery runs deep in Santa Fe, from hallowed Pueblo collections to clay-throwing pubs.

Steel City Shining

A tech boom; a thriving cultural scene; destination dining. Can this be... Pittsburgh?

HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL

This cute Pennsylvania town is brimming with artistic and cultural energy.

CHEERS TO SAN MIGUEL

With the restoration of a historic home, tequila brand Casa Dragones is putting its stamp on one of Mexico's best-loved cities.

The Luxury of Silence - Grieving a dissolved marriage, Nora Walsh seeks peace and compassion at a meditation retreat in California.

My decade-long marriage to a man I deeply love had dissolved, and I had come to the Spirit Rock Meditation Center, in the secluded hills of Marin County, north of San Francisco, to steady myself. Led by the author and meditation teacher Oren Jay Sofer, the seven-day silent retreat focused on the four brahmavihāra, or Buddhist virtues: loving-kindness, compassion, joy, and equanimity.

Family Values - Gay father and blogger Jonathan Bailey shares his proudest moments of traveling with his partner and daughters.

My partner and I grew up in families that didn't travel a lot, so we've always had a sense of wanderlust. Before we had kids, we traveled together, and it was life-changing-travel opened our minds to different ways of life.In 2000, Triton and I decided to have kids. At the time, my mom had terminal cancer, and we were all about connecting with family. We wanted to adopt, because we felt like there were so many children in the world who needed love and a good home. In 2002, my mom passed away, and Sophia was born two weeks later. We welcomed our second daughter, Ava, in 2004.

Back to Sri Lanka - The past few years have not been easy on this alluring South Asian island. But on a return visit, Prasad Ramamurthy finds a place-and a people-on the upswing.

I was at the end of a five-day journey that had begun in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Galle Fort, in southwestern Sri Lanka, and taken me across the southern tip of the island to the leopard reserve of Yala National Park. In between I had taken in the dramatic coastline of Weligama and had stopped for some beach time in Hiriketiya. Sri Lanka is a country I'm particularly fond of, so when I was asked to revisit to report this story, I seized the opportunity. Yes, I was dying to go back, but I'd had another motive for coming: I wanted to see if the island nation was ready to welcome international visitors again.

Experiences: Hands On - Single-malt whiskies and triple-cream cheeses are the stuff New York's Hudson Valley is made of.

The Hudson Valley has long drawn New York City dwellers in search of clean air, spectacular hikes, and upstate culture. Now a budding community of artisans-young farmers, bakers, vintners, distillers-is turning the region into a modern breadbasket.It is a tightly woven ecosystem that also extends to restaurants and hotels. At Tenmile Distillery, in the town of Wassaic, for example, the grain used to make whiskey comes from a farm in Tivoli, 30 miles away, while the gin and vodka it produces are served at stylish addresses like the Troutbeck (doubles from $580), a hotel in Amenia, and the restaurant Stissing House (entrées $22-$155), in Pine Plains.

LAGOS RISING

Africa's biggest city is a powerhouse of art, culture, and fashion. Shirley Nwangwa reflects on her relationship to her family's home and to her Nigerian identity, while photographer Ike Edeani captures the creative scene.

DEEP DIVE

Go for a swim with sperm whales, and you may find yourself hooked. Maggie Shipstead journeys to the Caribbean island of Dominica, where these giants of the deep are making a big splash.

AMERICAN VINTAGE

After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve. Wanda Mann takes a tasting tour.

Take a Hike

A beloved Malibu spa renowned for embracing the outdoors makes its way to the East Coast. Jess Feldman takes an inside look.

Just Dive In

The most nautical Four Seasons has to be this scuba-centric ship, which sails a rarely visited corner of the Pacific.

The Next Frontier

With deep pockets and mighty ambitions, Saudi Arabia is building a high-end resort area with serious green cred.

Hold on to Your Hat

A new Texas story is unfolding in Fort Worth. Nora Walsh boot-scoots her way around sleek hotels and world-class museums.

Breaking the Mold

A Swedish town once famous for its saltglazed ceramics is having a renaissance. Johannes Lichtman gets behind the wheel.

Silver Linings

The woes of Portland created fresh opportunities for Black-owned start-ups.

Ancient Flavors

On a trip along the Aegean Coast, Betsy Andrews savors the rich history of Turkish wine.

HEATING UP

In Mexico City, chefs from across the Asian diaspora are redefining the city's cuisine. Michaela Tremble traces a culinary connection that spans centuries.

Among the Groves - Two Puerto Rican hoteliers have opened their latest spot in Tuscany― and put the country's famed olive oil front and center.

The opening 12 years ago of the O:live Boutique Hotel in San Juan was a similarly welcome revelation. The adultsonly property, which overlooks Condado Lagoon, was both a fresh alternative to the city's corporate chains and a stylish, full-service upgrade to the island's selection of B&Bs. Each of its 15 rooms had a private veranda outfitted with Spanish tiles and a rain shower, and its high-end steak house, Sage La Bistecca by Mario Pagán, merged Caribbean and Mediterranean flavors. Other hotels in San Juan soon followed, including the 26-room O:LV Fifty Five, also in San Juan, and the 80-room beachfront Aire de O:live, in Isla Verde.

Playing with Fire - In the forests of Switzerland, some radical chefs are going back to basics.

I first heard about the Feuerring from Mischa-Amadeus Olma, the founder of a sustainable wood furniture brand in Berlin, where I live. As a side project, Olma also organizes Feuerring cooking events. One night, he invited me to a dinner on the banks of the river Spree, where he served barbecued venison and potatoes, followed by a smoky dessert of crêpes filled with chestnut cream. When Olma told me that chefs were using the fire ring throughout Switzerland, I knew I had to go to the source, so he and I planned a trip to meet them.

Second Course - Noma chef René Redezpi found fame ingredient-focused with fine dining. His new TV show goes even further.

This summer, chef René Redezpi and Travel + Leisure contributor Matt Goulding released their Apple TV+ docuseries, Omnivore. Each episode follows a single ingredient on its global journey, from harvesting to processing to cooking. T+L spoke to the Danish chef about the making of the series, and what's on his travel radar.

GBASS BOTS

On a road trip deep into the culinary heart of France, Rosecrans Baldwin visits the village restaurants and country hotels updating the age-old French tradition of cooking local.