The Serpent Reborn

Bulgari’s emblematic snake motif coils itself around the dial of a bewitching new timepiece line, the Incantati.

- Yanni Tan

One of the most iconic, recognisable and admired signature motifs in the world of fine jewellery has to be Bulgari’s Serpenti. The earliest Bulgari snake bracelet-watches dated back to the late 1940's and were in the shape of a highly stylised serpent, with coils realised either in the typical tubogas or gold mesh. While the serpent is a popular motif that is not unique to the Roman maison, its highly distinctive aesthetic treatment and craftsmanship stole the hearts of many women.

Shortly in the following decades, Bulgari was already asserting its affinity with the snake with increasingly varied and unique versions – every possible dial and shape was used; the dial was positioning at the centre or end of the tubogas coil; and the bracelet was crafted of steel, blackened steel or a combination of gold and steel.

The 1960's models were more figurative, flaunting watchcases concealed within the serpent’s head with the dial under a hinged cover. More flamboyance was introduced in the form of gold-crafted bodies, diamonds and coloured gems, multi-coloured enamel, longer coils, and varying sizes of scales.