I'm in the final months of filming a movie called Over the Edge, which is about trying to paddle the biggest barrel. Filmmaker Andrew Kaineder and I have been critically weighing up all the factors of every significant swell in the last 18 months, pulling the trigger when the elements look to produce big, hollow waves.
Waiting for swells is an exciting business. You have to be prepared for something you're not sure when or if it's going to arise. The long hours of training, perfecting equipment and continually being in a mental state to step up to massive waves, all seems strange when the waves are flat, and there are no red blobs on the forecast. Then suddenly, the storm is created, and you're scrambling to get everything organised to travel across the world to face up to sometimes 50-foot waves.
It's also challenging to make any commitments. I had two events this last year that I had to attend, and both responsibilities caused me to miss big, life-changing barrels that would have been huge for our film.
In January, I was getting ready to go up the coast for my friend's bachelor party. With everything organised, suddenly the day before this incredible looking Mully swell popped up on the forecast. The Saturday morning, I cancelled my lift to the bachelors, booked my ticket for Dublin and then flew out a few hours later. Landing in Ireland, I was suddenly transported from the comforts of summer, family life in SA to an Irish winter storm; snow on the mountains, cold winds and giant surf. The swell hit the very next day, and we missioned out to Mully. My first surf off the plane would be 20-foot slabs, gloves, 5mm boots and hooded suit.
Esta historia es de la edición Issue 202 de Carve Surfing Magazine.
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Esta historia es de la edición Issue 202 de Carve Surfing Magazine.
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TASMANIA ART CLUB
BRENDON GIBBENS AND DION AGIUS EXPLORE THE LITTLE CHUNK HANGING OFF THE BOTTOM OF AUSTRALIA AND GET CREATIVE
Mr Smith
THE GENIAL ED SMITH IS ONE OF THOSE SURFERS THAT HAS A TON OF ABILITY AND TOYED WITH THE COMP SCENE BUT SOON REALISED A REAL TRADE AND SURFING FOR HIMSELF WAS A WISER OPTION. WE BUMPED INTO HIM ON OUR MISSION TO SCOTLAND, AND HE WAS KILLING IT EVERY SESSION. SUPER STYLISH, ALWAYS DEEP, A PLEASURE TO SHOOT. HE 'S A GOOD BLOKE TO GO FOR A PINT WITH TOO.
SETH MOZ
SETH MORRIS IS A YOUNG PRO FROM A QUIET PART OF WALES. HE JOINED US ON OUR WINTER MISSION TO PORTUGAL, WHERE HE IMPRESSED ALL WITH HIS STYLISH ATTACK. READ ON FOR A PEEK INSIDE HIS HEAD.
God's waiting room
FIRST-TIME REFLECTIONS ON A MISUNDERSTOOD ISLE.
barnaby cox
THE NORTH CORNISH TOWN OF BUDE IS HOME TO A LOT OF TALENTED SURFERS. ONE OF THE NEW CREW JOINED US ON A WINTER MISSION TO PORTUGAL FOR A BIT OF SUNSHINE, SOME TUBS AND A LOT OF CHICKEN AND CHIPS.
YOU CAN'T BUY TIME
MEET TRAVIS MCCOY AND HIS LIFE CHANGING STORY
WADING AROUND IRELAND
A LAST MINUTE TRIP TO THE EMERALD ISLE WITH THE AVOCA JESUS, OTHERWISE KNOWN AS WADE CARMICHAEL, HIM OFF OF THE WCT.
ON THE PROWL
MAVERICKS STYLE INSANITY AT A JOINT THAT IS REAL HARD TO GET TO, TRICKY TO READ AND INCONSISTENT AS HELL.
WEIRD WAVES
ONE OF THE SIGNIFICANT CHANGES IN THE 25 YEARS OF CARVE IS THE OPENING UP OF SURFING BEYOND THE OCEAN. SURFERS WILL TAKE A SLIDE ANYWHERE THEY CAN IF DESPERATE ENOUGH.
JUSTINE DUPONT GOES LARGE.
THE PORTUGUESE BIG WAVE ARENA DISHES UP SOME EARLY WINTER TREATS FOR THE CREW