Idyll In Imphal

The Manipuri capital is modern, urban and chaotic, but the state’s pastoral charm is never far away. Here, the progressive and the traditional mingle delightfully in a centre of heritage and living history. 

- Chitra Ramaswamy

Friends and family raise concerns about safety and security when my husband and I plan to visit Imphal. But, being a travel buff and a quizzing freak, I refuse to be intimidated. I am determined to visit the Manipuri capital which boasts some superlatives. Imphal, the birthplace of modern polo with the world’s oldest stadium, and Imphal, home to the world’s largest all-women market, has fired my fancy.

As we head from the airport to Hotel Classic Grande, we observe that Imphal is like any metropolis, with the thrum of crowds and vehicles on its roads. Yet there is a pastoral charm about the city which immediately draws us to it. Enter some of its alleyways and you are likely to see groups of elderly people, huddled in small joints, drinking rice beer with great gusto, and guffawing amid conversations.

The view of the city from our room is a strange mix of contrasts. While rolling hills draped in hues of green stretch into the distance, and the dome of the Legislative Assembly gently peeps from its surrounds, a sprawl of buildings in varied states of maintenance lies in the foreground.

A pleasantly queer blend of the traditional and modern lends Imphal a unique aura. No high-rises, megaplexes and glitzy malls here. The enterprising and progressive women, clad in the traditional sarong, zigzag their way on scooters through a chaotic maze of traffic. We are pleasantly surprised to observe the disciplined manner in which motorists await their turn in serpentine queues at petrol stations to refuel their vehicles. There is neither impatient blaring of horns, nor jumping of queues which extend a good half-kilometre or more. And this is a sight we see each day during our four day stay in the city.