GO OFF THE MAP

The timeless charm of Agra extends beyond its pièce de résistance, the Taj Mahal. Pockets of colonial candour can be found at every turn, if only one were to stop and notice.

- ANANYA BAHL

WHAT IF I TOLD YOU I could show you another Taj Mahal in Agra?” asks my guide, Yogesh, enthusiastically. I’m struck by the magnanimity of this relatively tiny North Indian city—just how many historic structures does it contain? He continues, “Not just that, I’ll take you to a few lesser-known spots that are very significant in the city’s colonial history.” The fact that Agra can hold its visitors in rapt attention—and not just with the Taj Mahal—makes me sit up and take notice. I buckle up and get ready to explore the historic city’s oft-overlooked neighborhoods. And I am in for several surprises.