Here Be Dragons

A voyage back to Indonesia is steeped in wildlife, nature and heritage for the food writer Lara Lee as she journeys through the islands within Komodo National Park and Bali.

- LARA LEE

The road to the Komodo Islands is long. I say road but, strictly speaking, it is a passage by air and sea as well as land. I am travelling to one of the most remote places in the world, so I am expecting a remarkable adventure.

The first leg of my 10-day journey is a long-haul flight to Bali, landing in the secluded foothills of Tabanan in the east, a relatively unknown part of the island, 30 minutes north of the village of Canggu. I stay at Nirjhara, an exquisite jungle resort with a cascading waterfall at its centre.

A meandering river separates the retreat from the fertile rice paddies lining the entrance. Small black and yellow centipedes weave through the delicate carpet of frangipani covering the footpath. Outstretched banana-tree leaves bow their heads, while bamboo stems and the lobster claws of red heliconias sway gently in the cooling breeze.

The 25-room resort has been designed with careful consideration for the natural landscape surrounding it. My accommodation here is the Residence, a two-bedroom villa that opens out onto a tropical forest, a view I can also see from the private infinity pool. e walls are made from coconut shells and the rooms are constructed with recycled wood and natural stone; traditional ironwood-shingled roofing complements the lush surroundings and the melodic soundtrack of the birds, while the gentle hum of insects is soothing and serene. A sugar glider–—a type of possum—leaps across the palm fronds, entertaining me as it climbs at speed over the foliage.