Prince of SWEETS

A third-generation Japanese patissier has set his roots in Singapore making yogashi that celebrates the distinct, natural flavours of Japanese produce

- SNG LER JUN

Makoto Arami was 15 when he made his first pastry, the pâte à choux, a classic French sweet commonly used in eclairs and cream puffs. He'd stir up a warm batter, made of melted cold butter and flour, allowing it to cool as he whisked before adding eggs, one at a time, to achieve an oozy, silken consistency. Under his father's watchful gaze, in the kitchen of his family-owned dessert shop - known for its western-style sweets or yogashi - in Hikone, Japan, he'd then pipe the mixture into imperfect teardrops from a pastry bag and send them into the oven.

"The choux is one of the simpler pastries," he says.

Compared to other hobbyists who have dipped their toes at baking pastries at an even younger age, Arami's foray stands out as an anomaly. "I had helped out in the kitchen before but had never baked. Until that day," recalls the 36-year-old, who was taught by his father to cut and pair fruits with cream, ganache, and chocolate from a young age. "Baking can be a delicate process, and he didn't want people to interfere with the routine he was accustomed to," says Arami.

Like Arami, his father grew up in a family making wagashi (artful and traditional Japanese sweets often served at tea ceremonies). His penchant for travel inspired him to bake yogashi, which stirred up a passion in his son.