FASHION ON POINTE

Fashion and ballet have long performed a beautiful pas de deux, though lately the steps have faltered. Not on fashion’s part – it continues its idolatry of the art form. But ballet? Well, that depends.

- Glynis Traill-Nash

Think of ballet, and what comes to mind? Frothy tulle, satin ribbons and cute leotards in hues of pale pink, white and black? What about dark-purple bruises, oozing blisters and bandaged, bloody toes? The latter list may not be quite so instagrammable, but they are some of the less aesthetic realities of wearing those pretty pink pointe shoes for hours on end.

Times have changed since balletomania (no hashtag) first took flight in the 1920s and ’30s, thanks largely to the Ballets Russes in Paris, whose designs influenced the likes of Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet and Coco Chanel. Today’s #balletcore trend arrives at a time when fashion is having to do a lot of reckoning in all sorts of areas – from inclusivity and diversity to sustainability – and when the industry is being called out for bad behaviour on any and more of these fronts.

For those who never had the opportunity to study ballet (or gave up the lessons early on), it’s easy to see the appeal of balletcore. It can be pretty and elegant, with layers of gossamer and pastel hues bringing to mind childhood fantasies of femininity. It can also be comfortable, with ballet flats and wrap cardigans, bodysuits and slouchy track pants conjuring up classes and rehearsals. Indeed, off-duty dancer has usurped off-duty model when it comes to casual style.