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VOGUE India

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September 2022

Soldier, harem owner, hot-air balloonist... few adventurers are quite as swashbuckling as Claude Martin, a Frenchman in 18th-century India who would go on to become a potentate of vast wealth. Murky his morals may have been, but as this newly restored palace turned eye.

- COSMO BROCKWAY

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Lyon and Lucknow may be several thousand miles apart but they are linked by two things: a weaving heritage and one of history's great adventurers, Major-General Claude Martin. Soldier, harem keeper, indigo farmer, palace builder and hot-air balloonist, Martin's life could only perhaps have taken place in the 18th century. A tropical Barry Lyndon, he was born in 1735 to generations of vinegar brewers but, thirsting for adventure, Martin fled Lyon with the Compagnie des Indes. His mother ordered him not to return until he was "in a carriage", and he fought against the British in the Carnatic Wars prior to defecting to the East India Company (enlisting in the Bengal Army) once the French lost their colony of Pondicherry in 1761.

Distrusted by both colonies as a deserter and not-quite-a-gentleman, Martin nevertheless distinguished himself as a strategist and surveyor, with a Machiavellian turn of mind that thrived in the cut and thrust of colonial derring-do. Managing to get himself appointed to the plum role of superintendent of the arsenal for the Nawab of Awadh, Asafud-Daula, at Lucknow, Martin began to amass his fortune. Shadowy was the provenance of most of his riches-backdoor sion with Enlightenment-era treasures, including ranks of classical statues and a philosophical library with many Oriental manuscripts. In true potentate fashion, he installed seven Indian mistresses and two African eunuchs, Mahboob and Amber, whom he acquired from an Arab trader.

MÁS HISTORIAS DE VOGUE India

VOGUE India

VOGUE India

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time to read

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VOGUE India

VOGUE India

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Everyone thinks they've got Himesh Reshammiya figured out—a polarising singer with lofty movie-star aspirations that will ultimately be his undoing. But underneath the bravado and the black trench coat, SADAF SHAIKH finds a lover boy simply chasing whimsy. Photographed by AMITAVA SAHA. Styled by MANGLIEN GANGTE.

time to read

7 mins

March - April 2026

VOGUE India

VOGUE India

Bottled-up feelings

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time to read

4 mins

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VOGUE India

VOGUE India

Radical chic

As Jonathan Anderson settles in at Dior, the world seems to be watching: Can his earlier triumphs of creativity and craft translate to one of Paris's most monumental and historic houses? One thing is for certain: He likes a challenge.

time to read

13 mins

March - April 2026

VOGUE India

VOGUE India

First impressions

What if fashion's most original references are not imported at all? MANGLIEN GANGTE reflects on how style grows in overlooked places, far from the industry and its institutions.

time to read

3 mins

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VOGUE India

VOGUE India

INNER CIRCLE

In a culture built on big, fat weddings, some couples are choosing to go very, very small and discovering that the real luxury isn't scale, but time.

time to read

3 mins

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VOGUE India

VOGUE India

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Traditional textile crafts in India face extinction due to changing social and climatic conditions. How much longer until all we're left with is nylon and polyester?

time to read

6 mins

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VOGUE India

VOGUE India

Down to Earth

As Sunita Williams hangs up her space boots, KANIKA SHARMA meets the legendary NASA astronaut by Kozhikode's riverside to speak with her about what lies beyond the stars.

time to read

4 mins

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VOGUE India

VOGUE India

Shared ground

Farzana Hossain and Akash Kakumani brought together 85 guests for a wedding celebration shaped by different faiths, shared humour and a few joyful surprises.

time to read

3 mins

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VOGUE India

VOGUE India

Metal of honour

Trying to embroider iron might sound like a Sisyphean endeavour, but Richa Arya keeps at it to remind herself of the injustices the women in her hometown endure.

time to read

4 mins

March - April 2026

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