Smoke and Ice

Cold smoking is the key to next-level summer spreads.

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COLD SMOKING

SUMMER IS SYNONYMOUS with outdoor cooking-the warm weather calls for firing up the grill for burgers and dogs. But your grill is also an ideal tool for the often-overlooked technique of cold smoking. Unlike hot smoking, which imbues ingredients with smoke while cooking them, cold smoking adds a smoky, sweet fragrance without the addition of heat. It's the technique to lean on when you want to impart a delectably smoky finish to otherwise ready-to-eat ingredients, such as a side of cured salmon, a delicate ball of burrata (see p. 46), or fresh fruit (p. 48), without altering the texture. Best of all, this versatile cooking method requires nothing more than a grill (charcoal or gas), ice cubes, and wood smoking pellets.

To make Cold-Smoked Salmon (recipe opposite), begin by curing the fish in salt and brown sugar. This step helps draw out moisture and gives the salmon its silky texture and translucent appearance. After curing, refrigerate the salmon uncovered to form a pellicle, a thin, dry layer that helps the smoke adhere to the surface.

Temperature control is key to cold smoking. In order to prevent fish from overcooking or turning flaky, cheese from melting, and fruit from becoming mealy, the temperature of the grill must remain below 86°F. While it's not strictly necessary, we recommend investing in a perforated stainless steel maze smoker (see "Gear Guide," opposite)-its labyrinthine design provides ample oxygen to keep wood pellets (which are less likely to ignite than wood chips) smoldering at a controlled pace, providing hours of steady smoke. (If you don't have a maze smoker, a homemade boat-shaped aluminum foil tray will also get the job done.) As further insurance against temperature spikes, place the ingredient to be smoked on a wire rack over a tray of ice cubes.