The Neighborhood Joint
DAPHNE'S
299 Halsey St., Bed-Stuy
daphnesbrooklyn.com
EVERY WEEK brings a new Italian restaurant named after someone's aunt or nonna specializing in negronis, natural wine, and pasta. Daphne's (named in part for the Frasier character, oddly) is the strongest possible expression of this idea, straddling the line between fashionable and familiar.
The menu changes frequently, featuring plates of thin-crusted saffron arancini, oyster toast with 'nduja, floppy ribbons of reginetti with razor clams, and a pestopainted half-chicken that's seared until it's dark brown and served on top of a platter of fries.
Destination Indian
KANYAKUMARI 20 E. 17th St.
kanyakumarinyc.com
AT THIS six-month-old restaurant off Union Square, the décor is a little tacky and a few typos have slipped onto the menu. "This really heightens the authenticity," an Indian friend said happily. "I feel like I'm in India now." It's not the Indian restaurant with the most buzz at the moment (that's Bungalow, in the East Village, run by MasterChef India judge Vikas Khanna), but it's the best. The dishes, organized geographically, range all over the subcontinent, emphasizing the southern coast and offering variety I haven't seen elsewhere. Beef on an Indian menu? Fatty rib chunks fall off the bone, sweetened with coconut, onions, and chiles for slow building heat. A whitefish, "from Kozhikode" on the Keralan coast, meanwhile, is spackled with charred curry paste and served with a demitasse of cooling rice water.
Hidden Japanese
KINGIN
107 Rivington St.; kinginnyc.com
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Esta historia es de la edición July 15-28, 2024 de New York magazine.
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