The Luang Prabang Way of Life

Resting at the foot of sacred Mount Phousi, Amantaka is a charming 19th-century French colonial building with sprawling lawns, white walls and high ceilings.

- Hannah Choo

IN THE ABSENCE of skyscrapers and gridlock, Laos is as peaceful as it is forgotten. The country, landlocked by mountains and shaped by the Mekong river, is a mysterious presence in Southeast Asia. Life here is sleepy, charming and vulnerable. The French colonial rule was a 50year siesta, and little has changed since the days of the 14th-century prince, Fa Ngum, whose ancient administrative system lasted until 1975.

Since Laos opened its doors to tourism in the 1980s, Luang Prabang has been a draw for visitors. For those keen on seeing the vanishing charms of old Indochina, the historic royal capital of Laos is an unspoilt paradise tucked away in the mountains of northern Laos. Once the cultural, religious and political centre of the country, it is now a remnant of another world, surviving on sticky rice, memory and tradition. It hasn’t remained untouched, of course, but as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a great deal has been done to preserve the town’s architecture.