A TASTE OF HOME

Between food historian Khir Johari's Best of the Best Book triumph for his epic tome on the evolution of Malay cuisine in Singapore and the exciting new Malay fine-dining restaurants taking the city's culinary scene by storm, are we finally seeing a Malay cuisine renaissance?

- Hei Kiu Au

In the vast culinary landscape of Southeast Asia, one cuisine has often stood in the shadows. But as the accolades pour in for author and food historian Khir Johari’s epic tome, The Food of Singapore Malays: Gastronomic Travels Through the Archipelago, for winning the top prize at the 28th Gourmand World Cookbook Awards this May, the spotlight is finally on the age-old secrets of Malay gastronomy. Among the contenders from around the globe, Khir’s 621-page chronicle of Malay cuisine was recognised as the Best of the Best Book in the World.

Shortly after this achievement, Fiz, a contemporary restaurant celebrating the region’s culinary heritage and diversity, opened its doors, adding to the limited—but growing—number of Malay fine dining establishments in Singapore. Led by chef-owner Hafizzul Hashim, Fiz offers thoughtfully curated tasting menus featuring regional dishes, forgotten indigenous ingredients, and ancient cooking techniques, taking diners on a gastronomic journey through the Malay Archipelago.

In the same month, Seroja, another contemporary restaurant paying homage to the flavours of the Malay Archipelago, made waves at the Michelin Guide Ceremony Singapore 2023. It received Singapore’s first-ever Michelin Green Star, in addition to being newly awarded its first Michelin star and the Young Chef title for its chef-owner Kevin Wong.

The impressive win for Khir and the rise of Malay fine-dining restaurants such as Fiz and Seroja begs the question: is a Malay cuisine renaissance on the horizon?