Queen of Umami

After a decade in the business, Morsels' chef-owner Petrina Loh is more confident about putting fermentation at the forefront of her cuisine.

- DAWN WONG

While many restaurants in Singapore's competitive dining landscape come and go, Morsels, an innovative Asian Fusion restaurant housed in a cosy barnyard cottage in Dempsey Hill, has stood the test of time.

The home-grown restaurant, which celebrated its 10th anniversary in January, is an under-the-radar gem. Despite being hidden off the main thoroughfare, this homey joint continues to welcome diners, who return for chef-owner Petrina Loh’s idiosyncratic cuisine that reflects her Singaporean heritage and love for fermented sauces and ingredients.

The 41-year-old has also accomplished the herculean task of keeping her modest restaurant relevant and appealing to the crowd amid the ebbs and flows of the restaurant industry.

Her secret? Embedding her identity as part of the restaurant’s brand. Even when she is absent, diners recognise all her long-time staff — some of whom have been with her for as long as six years. “It is like a family; every time you dine here, you feel at home,” she explains.

Loh’s cuisine incorporates many facets of her identity, which include a fondness for fermentation. She meticulously cultivates microorganisms such as lactic acid bacteria in pots on the kitchen counter for future use. In a world of relentless trends, she takes a retrospective approach to food.