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Biryani Beckons

The New Indian Express

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March 27, 2025

REMEMBER that scene in Kaithi where Karthi finally gets his hands on biryani before a night of chaos?

- AASHNA REDDY

Biryani Beckons

Yeah, that's pretty much every Chennaiite when the cravings hit — especially during Ramzan.

For some, their usual biryani joint isn't enough. "The most dramatic thing I've done for a plate of biryani? I started Daawat-e-Iftaar — a food festival that brings together all the best biryanis in one place. Because I wasn't happy with just eating from one spot. I wanted them all," laughs digital creator, Shamshad Begum, popularly known as @begumschoice on Instagram.

But what's her ultimate biryani hill to die on? "Of course, it will always be mutton basmati rice Chennai-style biryani, with the mutton-to-fat ratio perfectly aligned with the rice so it's juicy — and also made at home," she notes.

While Shamshad took her love for biryani to a whole new level, for the rest of Chennai, the biryani obsession is usually split between two legendary rivals — Buhari and Bilal. There are two kinds of people in this city: those who'll fight to the death for Buhari biryani and those who swear Bilal is the real deal. And then there are the ones who don't care as long as there's a plate of steaming, fragrant biryani in front of them, preferably with a perfectly cooked piece of meat and a side of raita they may or may not touch. But let's be real — whether you're team Buhari, team Bilal, or just team 'Please let me eat in peace,' one thing is certain: good biryani in this city is non-negotiable.

B for...?

Step into Buhari on a weekend night, and you'll find a crowd that looks like they're waiting for concert tickets — only the headliner is a plate of chicken 65 followed by a mound of biryani. At Bilal, the scene is just as intense, with people willing to stand, wait, and maybe even start a minor argument if someone tries to cut in line. "I have skipped weddings but never skipped Sunday biryani at Buhari," Anagha, a self-proclaimed biryani purist, says between bites. "Priorities."

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