Lore of the JUNGLE
Gourmet Traveller|April 2023
The "breakfast of the gods is just the beginning of BELINDA JACKSON's culinary adventure into the rainforest foods of Sarawak, in Malaysian Borneo.
BELINDA JACKSON
Lore of the JUNGLE

Mornings start gently in Kuching, in eastern Malaysia. The chill of twilight burns away quickly to leave the air thick and comforting, lulling all into a slow-moving entrance to the day ahead.

This colourful little city, with its alleyways of pastel-coloured Chinese shophouses, is gently carved in two by the Sarawak River. Old men row long, covered boats from shore to shore, ferrying neatly pressed office workers to the town centre, and it's fair to say that I'm not feeling any rush in Kuching's rush hour.

But first: a little geography lesson. Kuching is the capital of Sarawak, one of the two Malaysian states on the island of Borneo, which is carved up between Malaysia, Indonesia and little Brunei.

The only sign of energy I spy this morning is in Kuching's breakfast cafés, where woks flash and tea brews.

While Malaysians are eating, they are planning the next meal. Or maybe a post-prandial snack. It's a pattern I've happily fallen into.

My day starts with a small bowl of Sarawak laksa at my little hotel, The Ranee, which overlooks the river in downtown Kuching. I stop to investigate a congee stand – there’s my second breakfast – on the way to what will become my third breakfast, another bowl of Sarawak laksa, this time at Choon Hui café. This neighbourhood kopitiam, with its plastic tables and chairs, is Malaysia’s foodie ground zero – it’s where the late Anthony Bourdain tasted, then hoisted Sarawak laksa up onto the world stage, declaring it “the breakfast of the gods”.

I later find Sarawak laksa on a dinner menu at Cove 55, Sawarak’s top boutique hotel, 30 minutes’ drive north of Kuching on the Santubong Peninsula, once a notorious pirate hotspot (and still notorious for its resident crocodiles).

Esta historia es de la edición April 2023 de Gourmet Traveller.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

Esta historia es de la edición April 2023 de Gourmet Traveller.

Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.

MÁS HISTORIAS DE GOURMET TRAVELLERVer todo
From personal experience
Gourmet Traveller

From personal experience

Former Hope St Radio chef ELLIE BOUHADANA invites you to gather your loved ones and enjoy an evening of good food and laughter with recipes from her new cookbook, Ellie's Table.

time-read
8 minutos  |
September 2024
Kimberley Moulton
Gourmet Traveller

Kimberley Moulton

Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we applaud the international curator and Yorta Yorta woman who is shining a light on First Peoples.

time-read
3 minutos  |
September 2024
Tom Wallace
Gourmet Traveller

Tom Wallace

We share a drop with the head winemaker for Devil's Corner, Tamar Ridge and Pirie Sparkling, a master of cool-climate grapes.

time-read
1 min  |
September 2024
Best in class
Gourmet Traveller

Best in class

The top drops to keep an eye out for on wine lists (and why they're worth the splurge)

time-read
3 minutos  |
September 2024
A taste of refuge
Gourmet Traveller

A taste of refuge

Fleeing war and persecution, Australia's new arrivals push our food culture forward. DANI VALENT explores the contributions of the country's refugee communities.

time-read
4 minutos  |
September 2024
BE OUR GUEST
Gourmet Traveller

BE OUR GUEST

Inspired by the sense of place conjured by Europe's Michelin-star restaurants, local restaurateurs are expanding their hospitality remit to include accommodation

time-read
6 minutos  |
September 2024
Barcelona BUZZ
Gourmet Traveller

Barcelona BUZZ

A popular drawcard for digital nomads and expats alike, the Catalonian capital offers equal parts sophistication and fun. Here, DANI VALENT discovers the latest dining hotspots.

time-read
4 minutos  |
September 2024
HEATHCOTE BOUND
Gourmet Traveller

HEATHCOTE BOUND

MICHAEL HARDEN hits the road to explore regional Victoria's Heathcote, home to this year's Best Destination Dining and a host of other delights.

time-read
4 minutos  |
September 2024
The art of...relishing restaurants
Gourmet Traveller

The art of...relishing restaurants

Does working in hospitality make someone a better or worse diner

time-read
3 minutos  |
September 2024
HEART AND SOUL
Gourmet Traveller

HEART AND SOUL

Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.

time-read
7 minutos  |
September 2024