The Good Earth

The Roca brothers redefined Catalan cuisine—and their latest venture is a love letter to the Spanish region they call home.

- By Agnish Ray

ROCA. IT’S THE Spanish word for “rock,” but in European foodie circles, it’s also a name that carries a certain cachet. That’s because husband-and-wife team Josep Roca and Montserrat Fontané opened a restaurant called Can Roca in 1967 in Girona, about an hour north of Barcelona. It quickly became known for authentic, homestyle food like arròs a la cassola, a rice casserole often made with rabbit, prawns, and vegetables.

The couple’s sons added to the legacy in 1986 with El Celler de Can Roca, which today is a Michelin three-starred restaurant reported to have an 11-month waiting list. Each brother has a specialty: the oldest, Josep, is a sommelier; Juan is the head chef; Jordi, the youngest, handles dessert and pastries. Together, the trio is synonymous with some of the most inventive expressions of Catalan cuisine.