REMOTE ACCESS: NQ TRACKS PART 2

JOURNEYING TO CAPE YORK’S TIP AND BACK ON LESSER-TRAVELLED TRACKS ON THE PENINSULA’S LOWER EAST COAST OFFERS STUNNING SCENERY, ISOLATION, EXCELLENT FISHING AND MORE.

- DICK EUSSEN

WHILE many Cape York travellers rely on GPS for directions, it’s best and more accurate to plan long trips by studying proper maps of the region. The Hema Cape York Atlas & Guide book – or the Hema Cape York map – are both ideal. If you have one and want to avoid the PDR on the return route from the Tip – or the way north – there are alternate routes on the west and east sides of the PDR, most largely ignored by ‘Tick-off the Tip’ visitors.

When coming back from the Tip, one of the best East Coast routes can be taken by turning east on to the Port Stewart Road, 28km south of Coen. Consider visiting Indigenous-owned Silver Plains Station – if open to visitors. They had some great barra fishing and boar hunting there on my last visit a few years back, though it cost me a little.

While it’s named as a ‘port’, Port Stewart no longer functions as one. Previously it was used to unload mining equipment on the muddy foreshores of the Stewart River estuary, from where the machinery was dragged up the steep hills of the Great Dividing Range by horse and bullock teams to the Coen and Ebagoola goldmines beyond.

About 20km back from the boat ramp that now marks the Port, turn south along the coast to Lily Vale Station via the Running Creek track. It runs on private land and is subject to the whims of one owner because, at times, people have encountered locked gates. This was after he got pissed off by grubs leaving rubbish behind, illegal shooting and ignoring ‘no trespass’ signs. It only takes one mongrel to spoil it for all. Just remember that you are a guest in this country, treat it as such.