Drawing The Palate

From Moringa taking over kale, to millets beating quinoa in its own home game and small plates become indigenous, here’s how behind-the-burners’ thinking is shaping the dining experiences in 2018.

- Madhulika Dash

On one of his Indian tours to explore the secrets of Old Delhi by-lanes and the colourful world of Khari Baoli, Asia’s (in fact, the world’s) biggest spice market, the late Chef Anthony Bourdain was asked, 'How do you perceive trends?' The celebrity chef, in his unique style had said, “Trends are one chef’s design that gets a wide acceptance. They can be made and broken on whim, eccentricity and a desire to create.”

Rather unconventional in his take, the legendary chef’s word has found credence in the Indian dining space in 2018, with more chefs taking the risky road to experiment and changing the way food is cooked, presented, viewed and even eaten. In fact, 2018 is dedicated to India, with Indian ingredients, techniques and even philosophy pushing aside western trends and creating a new niche for themselves.

Here’s the scoop into what India ate city-wise, as some of India’s finest culinary talent spills the beans on what rules the culinary roost, and what would remain in 2019.

MILLETS, BLACK FOOD, AND COLOUR

City Trend: Conventionally, we cannot call it as a trend. Millets have been a staple pan- India since ancient times. It is, in fact, called the poor man’s nourishment. What happened between 2017-end and 2018 is a conscious decision among chefs to go and explore the world of millets — and work with it, thanks partly to the rise of veganism and the need to explore different ingredients. As a result, today chefs around India work with more than 12 different kind of millets and even have an à la carte menu dedicated to the superfood. Buffets and banquets sections solely serve millet dishes. In fact, meals made with millets are part of a new trend called “conscious, sustainable eating.”