It can take a while to adjust to the ambience of a new country, but with Namibia, I fall in love at first sight. Driving from the airport, through the immaculate capital Windhoek and onto the wide plains, my friend and I are immediately entranced by the hazy, terracotta landscape, dotted with spiky, sculptural shrubbery and, in the distance, shadowy mountains rising up against the endless sky. Our excitement rise as we turn off the highway and onto the Omaanda estate, rattling down the gravel roads towards the lodge in our four-wheel drive. Suddenly, our car brakes sharply: A welcoming party of three majestic lions has come out to meet us.
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