AUTUMN and winter, when the sap has retreated deep down the trunks of deciduous trees and they have lost their leaves, is when you give most of them a trim.
There are exceptions (see p5) but most of them can be cut back during these dormant days without harming them. If we were to prune them in spring or summer when they are growing, they could lose a lot of sap from pruning wounds.
This not only weakens the tree, but as with any cut to live material, opens the way for problems.
Trees and shrubs we can safely prune in cold weather are apple and pear trees, softfruit bushes, many climbers, roses and most species that lose their leaves in autumn.
Pruning can seem daunting, especially if you are planning to remove a lot of growth, but if you are well prepared and take it slowly, it is an easy and enjoyable task and the results make it so worthwhile.
We prune trees to keep them tidy and healthy by removing dead, diseased and damaged wood and any that is cluttering up the centre of the plant. This can restrict airflow, leading to a higher risk of fungal disease, and can also cause branches to rub against each other, damaging the bark and creating an access for pests and diseases.
Pruning also helps keep trees productive, whether you have planted them for blossom or fruits.
Trees, shrubs and climbers that have been neglected and allowed to run riot can be reshaped over several years. Remove a third of old-growth this year to make room for new, then do the same next two years and you have a plant transformed, l of productive and manageable new shoots. The main tools you will need are secateurs for the thinnest growth and long handled loppers for anything slightly thicker and for branches that are higher up o awkward to reach. Shears are excellent for dense shrubs with small leaves, such as potentilla.
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