When Alessandro Michele launched his debut collection for Gucci, it wasn’t exactly an ideal situation. The menswear autumn/ winter 2015 collection was reportedly rushed out in a matter of five days, and on the heels of a rather abrupt firing of the fashion house’s creative director. It was up to Michele—although no one outside the Gucci circle was privy then to who’d be designing the collection—to shoulder the responsibility of showing a new Gucci.
Waif-thin male models languidly paraded out in silk blouses, shrunken suits, oversized glasses and fur-lined slip-ons. Even if the collection didn’t immediately catch on, there’s no denying the singular point-of-view, one that grew even more lavish, eccentric and maximalist season after season.
Fast forward to almost five years later, and that artistic vision has taken a rather drastic 180-degree turn. The spring/summer 2020 collection is a far cry from the opulence and over-the-top styling that Michele has cemented into our minds. There was nary a sequin nor those wondrously intricate embellishments seen on the ready-to-wear pieces. Instead, each look was clean-cut; the cleanest we’ve seen from Gucci since autumn/winter 2015.
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