Samantha Lim discovers how Eric Olmedo, principal research fellow at the Institute of Ethnic Studies (KITA), is establishing The Ulam School to create a new culture of eating.
IN TAPAI: Travels & Guilty Pleasures of a Fermented Malaysian by Hishamuddin Rais, the flaneur and food lover insists that, “A Malay meal without ulam is just like the French having one without wine.” So it’s interesting that Frenchman Eric Olmedo is putting his backbone into reminding us Malaysians of our ‘forgotten salad.’
Why ulam, a traditional salad comprised of leaves and herbs eaten raw or blanched, when it could have been lauk-pauk, kuih-muih, or a multitude of other dishes particular to the Malay Peninsula?
“Sorry to be an alarmist,” says the affable sociologist. “But Malaysia, Vietnam, and to a lesser extent, Cambodia, are facing a public health crisis. In these three countries, which constitute my team’s fieldwork, the increasing prevalence of overweight and obese citizens from 1990 to 2013 has been staggering.”
FAT NATION
There is no sugarcoating the fact: Malaysia has reached the highest prevalence in Southeast Asia. “Almost half the population is affected,” reveals Olmedo, quoting the Asian Development Bank Institute. “The exponential rise of urbanisation, sedentary lifestyles, and unhealthy eating habits are the leading factors for obesity and its associated health complications.”
It certainly doesn’t help that our cities are awash with fast food chains. “Furthermore, the high volume of imported vegetables has made it expensive and logistically challenging to obtain healthy meals,” adds Olmedo, making a case for the locavore movement. “This is why we need ulam: to fight against imported macro greens with low nutrients.
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
Waves of Wonder
Chaumet's Ondes & Merveilles high jewellery collection invents a unique language of the sea, capturing the colours and joy of life within and around the expansive depths
Bright, Light, Bella
Bella Hadid's star shines brighter as the new face of Chopard's iconic Ice Cube collection
Beauty Playbook
We tapped the British make-up extraordinaire Pat McGrath to talk all things beauty as she takes us through her early beginnings, creative process, make-up tips and more
The Chloé Woman, Reborn
As we head into fall-winter 2024, let's unpack one of the most anticipated collections of the season-Chemena Kamali's homecoming collection for Chloé
To the Mun and Back
Korean actress Mun Ka-young opens up about her dream destinations and her non-negotiable in-flight skincare essentials
One Step at Time
We speak to Edgardo Osorio, founder of luxury footwear brand Aquazzura, on his vision of comfort and glamour, from weddings to world stages
Seams Like Art
Eleen Tan, a fashion illustrator and art lecturer, talks about finding success and fulfilment in the fast-paced fashion industry without sewing a single stitch
POWERFUL LITTLE PERFORMER
In both her wardrobe choices and acting roles, Eyka Farhana demonstrates remarkable range
HOT DAME!
Meet the chic 89-year-old great-grandmother whose story of family and romantic reunion is as awe-inspiring as her timeless elegance
Digital Transformation
Newly appointed managing director of Microsoft Malaysia Laurence Si brings 30 years of experience to the role