It is a miracle worked by the Bureau of Indian Standards that turns spirit made of molasses —plain desi daru—into whisky, rum and brandy with a lot of added colour and flavour.
Who hasn’t heard of the first ritual obeisance paid by the Indian flying home from a trip abroad? At a neat little shrine where it’s customary to show up before heading for the exit: the airport duty free where you stock up on the Johnnie Walkers, Black Labels, Chivas Regals and other Scotch whiskies. One reason is that genuine, imported alcohol attracts a 150 per cent tariff outside. But there’s a better reason —an unstated truth that hangs over a country that loves to quaff alcohol. If you apply global standards, much of the Indian spirits available at your friendly neighbourhood booze shop amount to nothing more than fakes.
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