Where the story begins
Condé Nast Traveler US|May - June 2023
The complicated history of Charleston has sometimes been eclipsed by its myriad Southern charms. But the Holy City is taking steps to confront—and honor—the difficult parts of its past
By Latria Graham
Where the story begins

In Charleston, the land bears witness. But the water is where the story begins.

It was on the waves of the Atlantic, beginning in the 16th century, that hundreds of thousands of enslaved Africans-packed tightly into the cargo holds of European slave ships-were transported from West Africa to the Americas. If they survived the treacherous crossing known as the Middle Passage, most would arrive at Sullivan's Island, a two-and-a-half-mile-long barrier island separating the city of Charleston from the Atlantic Ocean. After a period of quarantine, they would be transferred to mainland Charleston, to a dock known as Gadsden's Wharf, and sold to the highest bidder.

Before the American Revolution, this enslaved labor force built the South Carolina Low Country into a place of unfettered prosperity, with Charleston as its epicenter. The goods wrought through its plantation economy-indigo, rice, and later sea island cotton-made Charleston the wealthiest city in the 13 colonies. Isolated and forced to toil on these hot, humid coastal plantations, West Africans were able to retain pieces of their culture, passing down songs, stories, and foodways from their home across the ocean. After emancipation, some stayed on and created self-sustaining coastal communities. Their descendants became known as the Gullah Geechee. A swath of land along the coast, which stretches from Wilmington, North Carolina, down to Jacksonville, Florida, is now called the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the {{IssueName}} edition of {{MagazineName}}.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM CONDÉ NAST TRAVELER USView all
bubbling up
Condé Nast Traveler US

bubbling up

With its dramatic volcanic landscapes, intimate new stays, and evolving creative scene, Lanzarote―the easternmost of Spain's Canary Islands-is having a moment

time-read
9 mins  |
December 2024
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Condé Nast Traveler US

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

In Dubai, ambitious chefs are fusing their personal stories with regional influences, forging a new vision for fine dining in their city

time-read
6 mins  |
December 2024
where it all began
Condé Nast Traveler US

where it all began

From Mombasa on Kenya's southern coast to Lamu in the north, Selina Denman charts the story of this part of East Africa-as well as her own

time-read
8 mins  |
December 2024
carried away
Condé Nast Traveler US

carried away

Northwest Australia's untouched Kimberley region, newly accessible via a Seabourn expedition cruise, is about as far as you can get from everywhere else. But for Erin Florio, the place's very remoteness is a testament to the interconnectedness of all things

time-read
7 mins  |
December 2024
CARIBBEAN CALLING
Condé Nast Traveler US

CARIBBEAN CALLING

It's that time of year when white-sand beaches, palm-studded resorts, and cruise ships that gleam against turquoise waters start to sound pretty damn fine. We've got all that for you here, plus a few surprises, to inspire your next vacation to the world's best place for soaking up the winter sun.

time-read
7 mins  |
December 2024
A Family Affair
Condé Nast Traveler US

A Family Affair

On a visit to the Coppola family's low-key Belize retreats with botanical skin-care expert Athena Hewett, Arati Menon discovers what homegrown hospitality is all about

time-read
3 mins  |
December 2024
Warm Welcome
Condé Nast Traveler US

Warm Welcome

For travelers seeking a window onto everyday life in Hawaii, Honolulu's Chinatown awaits.

time-read
3 mins  |
December 2024
The Surf Is Their Turf
Condé Nast Traveler US

The Surf Is Their Turf

On the sun-drenched Filipino island of Siargao, a tight-knit community of wave riders is keeping it real in the face of change.

time-read
3 mins  |
December 2024
MAD LOVE, MADE EASY
Condé Nast Traveler US

MAD LOVE, MADE EASY

A private-beach resort in Mexico gave Christina Hendricks and George Bianchini the ultimate wedding gift: freedom to rest

time-read
2 mins  |
December 2024
TAKE A BEACH BREAK
Condé Nast Traveler US

TAKE A BEACH BREAK

French Polynesian pro surfer Vaimiti Teiefitu on the best spots to surf, eat, and unwind around Tahiti

time-read
1 min  |
December 2024