The Edge Of Glory

Burhanpur was the grand southern fortress of the Mughals, But also where history Began to huM their swan song. Shubhankar Ghosh explores this Bittersweet legacy

- Shubhankar Ghosh

If it was not for the family tragedy that struck the Mughals in 1631, Burhanpur would have been the capital of Mughal India. But, 388 years after Mumtaz’s passing, this town in southern Madhya Pradesh is oblivious to its luminescent past, and chokes in the dust and sand whipped up by the endless caravan of trucks passing through the town.

Burhanpur was the capital of the Farooqi sultans, and later the de-facto capital and a favourite of the Mughals south of the Yamuna. A city famous for its textiles, Burhanpur had looms that provided huge revenue for the Mughal princess Jahanara and her younger brother Aurangzeb. But the atmosphere of romance probably ended when the royal family lost two of its princesses here in quick succession. One was Mumtaz Mahal, the other Bilqis Jahan.

Lying 121 kilometres away from the Omkareshwar Temple, you’re bound to make pitstops on the way to Burhanpur. I also stopped at the Asirgarh fort, which was about half an hour from the city. With mossy growth on its massive walls and rampart, and with its several deserted alleys, the structure is a must-see. Once in Burhanpur, I put myself up at the MPTDC-run Tapti Retreat. Though the guest house was not extraordinary, it was still the best that the location could offer, and as a plus point, was at the centre of the old town. I was already late for lunch, arriving close to 3pm, but was pleasantly surprised when the in-house restaurant whipped up a spicy chicken curry and hot rotis.

I had been waiting past the seven endless phases of the Election for months until I finally began planning my holiday. Burhanpur had been the raison d’être, and I knew that a long and winding trip across the heart of the country would have to be centred on this city.