The Upsides Of Getting Lost On A Trek In Ladakh

The upsides of getting lost on a trek in Ladakh are plenty, like stumbling upon a secret ‘valley of flowers’.

- Himmat Rana

I rotate the map in every possible angle, trying to make sense of it. It appears like a government policy, in utter mismatch with ground realities. In a desperate attempt, I try to vividly replay every word of the old man, who had last lent me directions at Kanji, Ladakh. Pointing towards east, in a deep rhythmic voice, he had said, “Shielakong, oh, chaar ghanta” (Shielakong, oh, four hours).

It’s been two days since and I am yet to reach Shielakong, the third overnight campsite of the 10- day long Lamayuru trek. I have been lost before; it comes with the territory but this is by far, my personal best. Having crossed muddy torrents over a dozen times and retraced my steps from countless dead ends, the spellbinding Ladakhi scenery is beginning to wane on me. Taking a deep breath, I rally on for one last time. The decision was made—another dead end, and I am heading back to Kanji.