THE FLIP SIDE OF GOA

Taking the pandemic-inflicted travel changes in her stride, RADHIKA TANDON travels to Goa in the rains for a holiday that involves physical distancing with others and intimacy with nature.

- RADHIKA TANDON

WHILE WORKING OUT the details of a post-lockdown getaway to Goa, I found myself dwelling on the changes in travel that are here to stay. As tourism comes back to life in a precarious dance with the pandemic, luxury is being redefined. Now, it’s all about private bubbles and customised experiences. I found myself looking for bespoke experiences, and unwittingly fell in love with Goa soaked in rains.

My first destination is Moira, a pristine village located deep in the North Goan countryside. Moira’s history goes back to the Mauryan period, from which it derives its name. Today, it is defined by its Portuguese heritage, evident in the unique architectural features of the houses scattered among banana plantations. In some places, ancient red walls plastered thinly in lime and mortar, and water channels built over 300 years ago, are still visible. A raised porch and a well in the compound are standard features, and on many rooftops I spot a rooster or a soldier, symbols of luck and tradition left over from Portuguese times. Most distinctive, however, are the windows lined with oyster shells instead of glass. This ancient technique lets in a translucent light, and though the craft is nearly extinct elsewhere, it can still be spotted in many homes of Moira.