Greek Goddess

Chef Argiro Barbarigou defines the country's cuisine in the heart of Athens

- STORY BY TERRY ZARIKIAN

BEYOND SOUVLAKI AND moussaka, Greek cuisine today is defined by chefs who follow traditional recipes created with local ingredients, especially those from specific places. In this case it is Paros, the island where chef Argiro Barbarigou introduced her cooking, inspired by her mother's teachings, at their Papadakis Restaurant. Back in 1996, this quiet island lured mega-yacht owners, locals and tourists to savor Barbarigiou's farm-to-table dishes at the edge of Naoussa, Paros' picturesque port. Papadakis became the most famous restaurant in the Cyclades islands, which are now overcrowded. Having seen many traditional eateries close, Barbarigou moved to Athens, where there was a steady flow of culinarians.