Abruzzo’s landscape is astonishing: a backdrop of statuesque mountains soaring to nearly 3,000m above sea level and capped with snow for six months of the year, with river valleys running down to the Adriatic coast through a band of hills where cool breezes and dramatic night-day temperature swings provide perfect conditions for fragrant, expressive wines.
The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo variety dominates the region’s production with generous, fruity and elegant, or powerful and complex purple-toned wines. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, the intense deep cherry-coloured rosé made with the same grape, is the locals’ go-to wine for its incredible versatility and charm – perfect with dishes such as brodetto (fish stew), arrosticini (the lamb skewers that have achieved cult status), charcuterie and Pecorino cheese.
Abruzzo’s white wine scene is focusing ever more on bold, herby Pecorino (the grape, not the cheese!) alongside Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Passerina and the less common Cococciola and Montonico. The passion and drive for quality of the region’s winemakers is palpable, aided by a dynamic consorzio.
Northern Abruzzo, home to the Colline Teramane DOCG, resembles a drawing, with neat rows of hills backed by the Gran Sasso d’Italia massif. This idyllic scenery is vivid at Emidio Pepe (emidiopepe.com), one of Abruzzo’s legendary wineries, which also offers accommodation for the season after mid-April. A pioneer of extreme ageing, Pepe began in 1964 with less than a hectare under vine (now some 17ha). Intervention is minimal: handpicked grapes are pressed by foot-treading (join in if you’re there at harvest time); and ageing can last for 20 years or more.
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