Ballad of the butter farmer

High up in the Italian Alps, Maria van Zyl learnt to make the tastiest butter in South Africa. Then she started a clever “subscription farming business” delivering dairy products to households in the Cape on a weekly basis, which is how she could afford to buy the first five cows for her micro-dairy. Meet the (bio)dynamic small-scale farmer with big plans

- JOHAN VAN ZYL

For years you’ve been reading about how terribly little South African dairy farmers are paid for their milk and end up having to throw in the towel one after the other. Incontrovertible, hard facts. But then – at your yoga class, of all places! – you meet 30-year-old small-scale farmer Maria van Zyl of Cream of the Crop Butter, who currently owns only five dairy cows (and their four calves) and tells you straight up that it’s “totally possible” to make a good living with just 12 dairy cows.

“Access to fresh milk is a luxury and a privilege,” she says, although she does have a nostalgic dream that one day all large towns will once again have a dairy to meet the requirements of the local community. A dream in which, just like in the old days, you’ll be able to leave out your clean milk bottles with coupons to be replaced at the crack of dawn by the milkman in his little delivery vehicle… and nothing is ever stolen. This is how it should be – for our health and that of the planet. But the most crucial elements of all are new thinking and a fresh approach.