The sunset in Sandeshkhali is just as majestic as it is in the Sundarbans. Vast fish farms and mangroves enhance the riverine island’s beauty. The last ferry to the mainland departs around 8pm. There is no accommodation for outsiders, except the state guest house.
Sandeshkhali, situated in the lower Ganges delta in West Bengal’s North 24 Parganas district near the Bangladesh border, has become the focal point of the Lok Sabha elections in the state following a widespread outburst of popular anger against Sheikh Shahjahan, a local strongman and leader of the Trinamool Congress. He was arrested in February after the protests attracted national and judicial attention.
A sense of fear continues to envelope the village, despite extensive police presence. Villagers are afraid to discuss anything about Shahjahan or even to have their photos taken, fearing reprisal from goons. Sandeshkhali was literally ruled by Shahjahan for a long time. Many complaints were filed against him and his associates by the villagers, about land grabs, molestation and their reign of terror. “It may be unbelievable to you, but they wield modern guns. They have a gang of around 300 people,” said a victim. “We never had an option but to follow their orders.”
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